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We know that Apple uses Toshiba TLC NAND flash chips for its SSD drives, which should endure up to 3,000 write cycles per physical sector based on the current lithography process. That doesn’t mean that they would instantly become unusable, but their users could experience major stability issues and, in extreme cases, data loss.

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Recently, several M1 Mac power users have shared alarming usage reports indicating extremely high drive writes over a relatively short time.īased on the wear of the SSD inside his 2 TB M1 Mac, developer Hector Martin calculated that 256 GB models could exceed their TBW in less than half a year.

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Method 3: Download a Free SSD Health Utility (Disk Drill).

Method 2: Use a Paid SSD Drive Checker (DriveDx).

Method 1: Check SMART Status on macOS with Disk Utility.

Every question won’t be answered, we don’t reply to email, and we cannot provide direct troubleshooting advice.

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If not, we’re always looking for new problems to solve! Email yours to including screen captures as appropriate, and whether you want your full name used. We’ve compiled a list of the questions we get asked most frequently along with answers and links to columns: read our super FAQ to see if your question is covered. This Mac 911 article is in response to a question submitted by Macworld reader David. My best advice? Don’t put off troubleshooting mysterious unmountings, because either something’s already wrong or about to get worse. While this seems unlikely, you can read about how I discovered this problem with a Mac mini a few years ago, which led to enormous amounts of wasted time and massive data-recovery efforts. The computer’s peripheral bus is failing. But the other, seemingly a little better off, began to unmount itself suddenly. One of the drives had corrupted files and macOS would freeze when trying to access those. I recenlty posted a review of DriveDx from Binary Fruit, and it helped me diagnose not one, but two external drive failures in time to rescue data. Unfortunately, Apple doesn’t have a tool that provides easy and direct access or evaluation. Often, there are signs ahead of time that something’s going wrong, and modern drives record diagnostic problems to an internal log. Cases for 2.5-inch (mobile) and 3.5-inch (desktop) drives can be very inexpensive-as little as $10 to $20.

If you think the drive is fine and the case is a problem, you may be able to swap the drive into another case to test. A drive has its own operating system, circuit boards, and chips, but a case also has components, firmware, and a power supply (unless it’s powered via the USB or Thunderbolt 3 bus). This is another hard thing to diagnose separate from the drive.

The company may be able to send you free or for a small fee a replacement adapter if it thinks that’s the problem.

You may need to call the company or use online tech support to get additional troubleshooting. Even with a power light, it can be tough to monitor and hard to test if a power adapter is the culprit, because AC power adapters are rarely the same among different companies (or even models of drive from the same company). If the drive has a power light separate from an activity LED, observe it and see if it’s flickering or otherwise inconstant.

Check that the adapter is plugged in to the drive firmly and that the AC power plug isn’t jiggling in the outlet or surge protector. Swap another identical cable, as it’s the cheapest way to isolate the problem.Ī faulty power connection. Cable failure is more likely for drives that are routinely connected and disconnected to a computer. This is true even if it’s the one included with the drive or you purchased one from a company with strong positive product reviews. Even if you haven’t touched the cable since you attached an external drive years ago to a desktop computer, cables can fail. Here are five other possibilities and some accompanying ideas for troubleshooting:Ī bad cable.